Rinse cherries (do not dry). Place 1 tablespoon sugar on a small plate and, one by one, roll 8 cherries through to coat; set sugared cherries aside.

Stem, pit and roughly chop remaining 16 cherries. Place in a small skillet over medium heat, add water, bring to a simmer, and cook, stirring occasionally, until cherries are heated and juices have released, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat.

Combine 1 tablespoon juices from cooked cherries, egg yolks, remaining 2 tablespoons sugar, brandy, lemon juice and salt in a large metal bowl set over a saucepan of barely simmering water and beat with a handheld mixer at medium-high speed until mixture has tripled in volume and forms a thick ribbon when beaters are lifted, about 12 minutes (while beating, be sure to clear bottom of bowl with beaters so that eggs do not scramble). Remove from heat and let cool until slightly thickened, about 10 minutes.

Place skillet with chopped cherries over medium heat to rewarm, then divide cherries among 4 glasses or bowls. Spoon zabaione over the top, garnish with sugared cherries and serve warm.