two "snails" with black garlic, cracked pepper, lemon and parsley
duo di "lumache" con aglio nero e pepe
TOTAL TIME: 5 hours plus chilling
MAKES: 6 to 8 servings
Mark Ladner, the chef of New York’s Del Posto, creates a pasta dish with his characteristic inventiveness. The two “snails” refer to the shape of the pasta as well as the sea snails in the dish. “It’s an evolution of pasta with clams,” he explains.“The black garlic made the recipe more delicious than I could have imagined. It turns into this caramel sweetness that’s rich without being heavy.”
- BRAISED SEA SNAILS
- 1 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
- 4 garlic cloves, very thinly sliced
- 3/4 pound frozen scungilli (whelk) or conch, thawed (see note)
- 2 cups dry white wine
- 5 leafy sprigs flat leaf parsley
- 1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns
- Fine sea salt
- 5 leafy sprigs fresh thyme
- BLACK GARLIC PUREE
- 1 cup peeled garlic cloves (from 2 to 3 heads)
- 1/4 cup peeled black garlic cloves (from 1 to 2 heads; see note)
- 2 Cups bottled clam juice
- 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
- 2 garlic cloves, very thinly sliced
- 2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley stems plus 3 tablespoons finely chopped leaves
- Fresh coarsely ground black pepper
- 1 pound lumache or a medium-sized tube-shaped pasta
- 1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
- Generous pinch sugar
- 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
BRAISD SEA SNAILS: In a large saucepan, heat butter and oil over medium-low heat until butter is bubbling; add garlic, reduce heat to low and cook, stirring once or twice, 1 minute. Add scungilli; cook 1 minute, then add wine, parsley, peppercorns, ½ teaspoon salt and water to cover by ½ inch. Bring just to a boil over high heat, then reduce to a very gentle simmer and cook, adding water as needed to keep scungilli just covered, 2 hours. Meanwhile, make Black Garlic Purée.
Black Garlic Purée:In a medium saucepan, combine garlic, black garlic and clam juice. Bring just to a boil, then reduce to a gentle simmer and cook until garlic is very tender and liquid is reduced to about ¼ cup, about 45 minutes.
Transfer pan contents to blender and purée until smooth. Force purée through fine-mesh sieve into a bowl. (Purée can be kept in an airtight container, with surface covered with plastic wrap, 3 days.)
Remove braised scungilli from heat. Add thyme and let stand until liquid is cooled to room temperature, about 2 hours. Transfer pan contents to a metal bowl and chill over an ice bath or refrigerate, covered, if making ahead (braised scungilli can be kept in its broth and refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days).
PASTA: Remove scungilli from broth and set aside, then strain broth into a large bowl; discard solids. Put 2 cups broth
in a saucepan and bring to a simmer; discard remaining broth. Very thinly slice scungilli crosswise.
In a 10- to 12-inch skillet, combine butter, oil and garlic. Cook over medium-low heat until butter is melted and bubbling. Add parsley stems and generous pinch pepper; cook 1 minute more.
Add scungilli and the hot broth; cook at a gentle simmer until liquid is reduced to scant cup, about 45 minutes. Remove sauce from heat.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add pasta, then reduce to a low boil and cook, gently stirring occasionally, until 1 to 2 minutes under al dente (pasta prepared to a markedly toothsome texture is best for this dish). While pasta is cooking, gently reheat sauce over medium-low heat.
Just before pasta is ready, add ½ cup black garlic purée, salt and sugar to sauce; stir to combine (any additional purée can be discarded or kept for another use). Drain pasta, shaking well to ensure all excess liquid is drained from tubes; transfer to a large bowl. Immediately add sauce, chopped parsley leaves and lemon juice; toss to combine well, adding hot water by the tablespoonful to moisten, if necessary. Adjust seasoning to taste. Serve immediately, passing additional fresh coarsely ground pepper at the table.
Note: Scungilli and conch are available at many fish markets. Black garlic can be purchased at gourmet markets or ordered from Gilt Taste, gilttaste.com; (855) 827-8347.
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