• 4 cups water
• Salt
• 1 cup coarse cornmeal
• 4 semiboneless quail
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 8 fresh sage leaves
• 4 thin slices speck or prosciutto
• 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
• 1 small carrot, finely diced
• 1 small shallot, finely chopped
• ⅓ cup dry white wine
• ½ pound fresh wild mushrooms such as trumpet, crimini or porcini, trimmed, halved or quartered, if large
• 1 small garlic clove, finely chopped
• 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh chives
• Extra-virgin olive oil
  
  Special equipment: Wooden picks or 6-inch skewers, soaked well before using, if bamboo

Heat oven to 450°.

In a heavy saucepan bring water and 1 teaspoon salt to boil; gradually whisk in cornmeal. Reduce heat to low and cook, stirring frequently, until polenta is very thick and pulls away from side of pan, 30 to 40 minutes.

Meanwhile, discard any disposable metal skewers from cavity of quail; rinse quail inside and out, pat dry and season cavity and outside with salt and pepper. Put 1 sage leaf into the cavity of 1 quail; place a second sage leaf on top of breast side. Wrap quail with 1 prosciutto slice. Thread cavity closed with a skewer. Repeat with remaining quail.

In a large ovenproof skillet, heat butter over medium heat until melted and bubbles form; add quail, breast side down. Transfer skillet to oven and roast for 15 minutes; turn quail breast side up and continue roasting until just cooked through (check inner thigh—meat will still be slightly pink), about 3 minutes more.

Remove pan from oven; transfer quail to a plate. Add carrot and shallot to skillet (skillet handle will be very hot; use a heavy pot holder to handle); place pan over medium-low heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until carrot is tender, about 8 minutes. Add wine, increase heat to medium-high and simmer for 1 minute. Add mushrooms, garlic, chives and pinch salt and pepper and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms are just tender, 2 to 3 minutes more.

Spoon polenta and vegetables onto plates. Top with quail. Drizzle with oil and serve.