For our exploration of the country’s formaggi, we focused on the 34 cheeses that are DOP-certified by the European Commission. DOP stands for denominazione d’origine protetta, or protected designation of origin. It’s a title given only to food—DOC and DOCG are similar labels reserved for wine—that indicates the cheese was made according to a certain historical method in an approved region. While carrying the label doesn’t necessarily mean the cheese is better in quality or taste—after all, the hundreds of non-DOP cheeses hold their own in terms of taste and quality—it does guarantee its origin, and that it was made according to time-honored and internationally approved methods.

Asiago
Milk:  Cows
Region of origin:  Veneto
Description:  Named after its home on the Asiago plateau in the Veneto foothills, asiago is part of a cheese-making tradition that dates back more than a thousand years. There are two types of asiago—asiago d’allevo and asiago pressato. Asiago d’allevo is matured for different durations, mezzano for three months, vecchio for about nine months and stravecchio for up to two years. Asiago pressato, on the other hand, has a higher fat content and is aged a month, producing a softer, milder cheese. Rinds of asiago can be straw colored and elastic to brownish gray and hard, depending on age, and the interiors can be white to dark yel low, with small to medium eyes.
Flavor profile:  When young, it tends to be milder, with a slightly sweet, milky flavor. Aged versions are full flavored, sharp and pungent.
Suggested wine pairing:  A young or aged red, such as valpolicella or amarone della valpolicella

Bitto
Milk:  Cows and goats
Region of origin:  Lombardy
Description:  This cheese traces its name to the Bitto River in the Sondrio province, and the word “bitto” derives from a Celtic word for perennial. It must be made at an altitude of at least 4,900 feet and only during the summer months, when cows graze in the high Alpine pastures. Rinds are thin, straw colored when young to brownish gray as they mature, and interiors, which are compact with small eyes, can range from off-white to golden yellow. Bitto matures for at least 70 days, and up to ten years.
Flavor profile:  When it is fresh, it has a mild, delicate flavor, but with maturation, the flavor strengthens, typically acquiring a tangy taste.
Suggested wine pairing:  An aged red, such as valtellina rosso

Bra
Milk:  Cows, goats and sheep
Region of origin:  Piedmont
Description:  Named after the town of Bra, south of Turin in the Cuneo province, bra comes in three distinct varieties. Bra tenero, a tender or soft version, is aged up to six months, bra duro, a hard version, is aged one to two years or longer, and bra d’alpeggio can be made only from cows that graze in mountain pastures from June to October. Rinds can be off-white, thin and elastic to brownish beige and hard, while interiors range from off-white to dark yellow-orange and are compact with small eyes.
Flavor profile:  Younger versions are mild, slightly spicy and milky, while aged versions are full flavored and pungent.
Suggested wine pairing:  A full-bodied red, such as roero rosso

Caciocavallo Silano
Milk:  Cows
Region of origin:  Some provinces in Calabria, Campania, Molise, Puglia and Basilicata
Description:  Made in various areas of southern Italy, the name roughly translates to “cheese on horseback,” referring to the traditional process of aging the cheese by tying two together with a rope and dangling them over a rod, reminiscent of riding horseback. This cheese is ripened from two months to two years, and comes in various shapes, usually gourdlike and often with a knob at the top from where it was tied. It’s elastic and has a stringlike texture.
Flavor profile:  Caciocavallo silano is typically eaten fresh; young versions are mild and salty, and as it ages, a tangy flavor develops.
Suggested wine pairing:  A full-bodied red, such as cirò rosso

Canestrato Pugliese
Milk:  Sheep
Region of origin:  Puglia
Description:  Hailing from Puglia, this cheese can only be made from Apulian Gentile or Merino sheep that graze on grass or plants. It takes its name from the baskets, canestre, in which the cheese is formed. Fresh canestrato is ripened for 10 to 15 days; the aged version can take more than a year. Rinds are hard with a pressed basket pattern on them, and can be yellow to yellow brown to gray brown in color; their interiors can be pale to dark yellow and sometimes have small eyes.
Flavor profile:  The cheese has a rich, full flavor and a sweet taste. Matured versions are more savory and aromatic.
Suggested wine pairing:  An aged red, such as primitivo di manduria

Casatella Trevigiana
Milk:  Cows
Region of origin:  Veneto
Description:  Only made in the province of Treviso in the Veneto region, this cheese has a rich heritage stemming from peasant families in the region who once made cheese and butter when their cows produced excess milk. It’s named for cheese that is made in the home, casa, or casata in Venetian dialect. It has a soft texture, is shiny and slightly creamy and crumbles when eaten. It ranges from milky white to creamy white in color and may have small, fine eyes and a milky aroma.
Flavor profile:  The flavor is sweet, with a milk base and a slight tang.
Suggested wine pairing:  A full-flavored white, such as bianco di custoza or prosecco

Casciotta d’Urbino
Milk:  Cows and sheep
Region of origin:  Marche
Description:  With a history that dates back to the 13th century, it is said that this cheese was one of Michelangelo’s favorites, and that he even bought land in the region to ensure he’d always have a steady supply. Semisoft and crumbly, its rind is thin and straw yellow, with a pale yellow interior with a few small eyes. It is aged 30 days or less.
Flavor profile:  Sweet, milky and a bit acidic.
Suggested wine pairing:  A medium bodied red, such as rosso conero

Castelmagno
Milk:  Cows, goats and sheep
Region of origin:  Piedmont
Description:  Made in the Cuneo province, this well-respected cheese has been produced since the 12th century; there is even evidence it was used as a form of payment during the 13th century. Its beginnings coincide with those of gorgonzola, and the two cheeses have many similarities. Castelmagno has a rind that is thin, smooth and pale reddish-yellow when young that thickens, hardens, wrinkles and turns darker with age. The interior is ivory white when young, turning yellow gold and forming blue veins as it ages.
Flavor profile:  This flaky cheese has a mild, milky taste, but can develop a sharper, salty taste once it matures.
Suggested wine pairing:  An aged red, such as barbera d’asti or barbaresco

Fiore Sardo
Milk:  Sheep
Region of origin:  Sardinia
Description:  Called “Sardinian flower,” this cheese was traditionally made in mountain huts by shepherds, smoked over open fires and rubbed with olive oil and sheep fat for ripening. More commercial versions are made without the smoke and lard. With golden yellow to dark brown rinds, which can be black when smoked, the interior is off-white to straw yellow, and it hardens considerably when aged more than six months.
Flavor profile:  Rich, full and nutty with a hint of caramel, it becomes strong and sharper with age.
Suggested wine pairing:  An aged or full bodied red, such as monica di sardegna or chianti

Fontina
Milk:  Cows
Region of origin:  Valle d’Aosta
Description:  Several types of fontina cheese are made in the U.S., Switzerland and France, but true fontina is produced in northern Italy in the Valle d’Aosta region from cows that graze in the Alpine pastures, and it’s been that way since the late 13th century. Rinds are thin, rigid and range from yellow-gold to reddish brown, with a pale golden interior with small eyes.
Flavor profile:  Distinct, sweet and buttery taste with some nutty notes.
Suggested wine pairing:  A light bodied red, such as gamay valle d’aosta or torrette

Formai de Mut dell’Alta Valle Brembana
Milk:  Cows
Region of origin:  Lombardy
Description:  Made only in the Valle Brembana, north of Milan near the city of Bergamo, the name derives from local dialect and translates loosely as “mountain cheese,” and refers to the Alpine pastures where the cows, traditionally Brown Alpine, graze. Though it can be made year-round, this firm cheese is primarily made during the summer, and aged at least 40 to 45 days, and often for more than six months. It features a thin, smooth rind that can be pale yellow to gray, with an interior that is off-white to pale yellow with small eyes.
Flavor profile:  Mild and delicate with herbal notes.
Suggested wine pairing:  A round, full-flavored white, such as garda colli mantovani pinot bianco

Grana Padano
Milk:  Cows
Region of origin:  Lombardy, Veneto, Piedmont; some provinces of Emilia-Romagna and Trentino-Alto Adige
Description:  Made throughout the Po Valley, this is one of the country’s most popular cheeses. The word “grana” refers to its grainy texture, which becomes flakier and crumbly as it ages. The hard cheese is made in wheels that range in color from straw yellow to golden brown, with a yellow to golden interior.
Flavor profile:  Strong aroma and distinct flavor that is fruity and delicate, with some toastiness.
Suggested wine pairing:  A sparkling white, sweet wine or young red, such as malvasia dei colli piacentini, lambrusco or marzemino

Gorgonzola
Milk:  Cows
Region of origin:  Piedmont and Lombardy
Description:  Named after the town of Gorgonzola outside Milan, this cheese dates as far back as the 10th century, possibly earlier. Encouraging the growth of mold on the cheese during its production gives it the blue-green veins that flavor it so distinctly. Gorgonzola is aged two to three months and up to six months, with younger versions being creamy and lighter in color, and older versions becoming firmer and crumbly, with more prominent veins.
Flavor profile:  Strong and earthy, leaning on the sweet and mild side when younger, becoming sharper and more piquant with maturation.
Suggested wine pairing:  A dry white or aged red, such as traminer or pinot nero

Montasio
Milk:  Cows
Region of origin:  Friuli-Venezia Giulia
Description:  Often compared with its neighboring cheese, asiago, the process for making montasio dates back to the 13th century, when monks at the Abbey of Moggio made similar cheeses. Its firm, straw-colored wheel has a rind barely discernable from the interior, which is ivory to yellow. The fresh version is aged two months, the medium version five to ten months, and the aged version for one to four years.
Flavor profile:  Mild, nutty taste, with fuller flavor and more pungency when aged.
Suggested wine pairing:  A young red, such as valpolicella

Monte Veronese
Milk:  Cows
Region of origin:  Veneto
Description:  Monte veronese hails from an area whose cheese-making traditions date back to medieval times, though it’s only been called monte veronese for about 200 years. It comes in small wheels, with rinds that are pale yellow and elastic to yellowish brown and hard. Two versions are made, one with whole milk and one with partially skimmed milk. The interior can be ivory to medium yellow, with a sprinkling of eyes.
Flavor profile:  Fragrant, slightly sweet with a subtle, mild taste. After aging, the taste is fuller, sharper and more pungent.
Suggested wine pairing:  A young or aged red, such as bardolino or valpolicella

Mozzarella di Bufala Campana
Milk:  Water buffalo
Region of origin:  Campania and Lazio
Description:  This cheese can only be made with milk from a water buffalo, the use of which dates back to the 12th century. The cheese is fresh, formed into egg-shaped balls and packaged in whey and water.
Flavor profile:  Delicate and milky, with a slight gamey flavor and soft texture.
Suggested wine pairing:  A dry white, such as ischia bianco or falanghina

Murazzano
Milk:  Sheep and cows
Region of origin:  Piedmont
Description:  Part of the robiola family, this cheese was traditionally made entirely from sheep’s milk, but DOP regulations now allow that up to 40 percent of the cheese can be made with cow’s milk. It’s not pressed, and contains more moisture than pressed cheeses. The rind is white to golden reddish brown, and the interior is ivory to light yellow, with small eyes.
Flavor profile:  Mellow and delicate, slightly savory.
Suggested wine pairing:  A round and full-flavored white, such as trentino bianco

Parmigiano-Reggiano
Milk:  Cows
Region of origin:  Emilia-Romagna and Lombardy
Description:  The reigning cheese of Italy, Parmigiano-Reggiano is the real deal. Authentic versions carry a mark with the producer’s registration number along with the year and month of production. It’s called giovane if aged one year, vecchio if aged two years, stravecchio for three years and stravecchione if aged more than four years. Formed into wheels, its rind is slightly oily and straw yellow in color; the interior is flaky, grainy and yellow.
Flavor profile:  Aromatic, with full, fruity and fragrant tones that strengthen with age.
Suggested wine pairing:  A sparkling white, young red or dry white, such as franciacorta, lambrusco or recioto di gambellara

Pecorino di Filiano
Milk:  Sheep and goats
Region of origin:  Basilicata
Description:  This cheese goes back so far as to be mentioned in documents from the days when Basilicata was a part of the kingdom of Naples. The rind is golden yellow, with an interior that ranges from white to straw yellow.
Flavor profile:  Initially mild and delicate, becoming more pungent as it matures.
Suggested wine pairing:  An aged or full-bodied red, such as chianti riserva or sagrantino di montefalco

Pecorino Romano
Milk:  Sheep
Region of origin:  Sardinia, Lazio and Tuscany
Description:  An ancient sheep’s milk cheese that is more than two thousand years old, it takes its name from the farmlands surrounding Rome and is said to have been part of the ration for Roman legionaries in the first century. Its rind is hard, smooth and pale yellow, though during export it is encased in dark plastic material. The interior is white and firm.
Flavor profile:  Aromatic, bold, briny and piquant; often salty.
Suggested wine pairing:  An aged red, such as cesanese del piglio

Pecorino Sardo
Milk:  Sheep
Region of origin:  Sardinia
Description:  Pecorino sardo comes in both fresh and aged varieties; the mature version is ideal for grating. It is formed into wheels, with a thin, smooth and pale yellow rind in younger cheeses that hardens and darkens as it matures. The interior is white to pale yellow with a few eyes.
Flavor profile:  Sweet, milky and slightly acidic when young, becoming harder and a bit tangy with age.
Suggested wine pairing:  An aged red, such as monica di sardegna

Pecorino Siciliano
Milk:  Sheep
Region of origin:  Sicily
Description:  Homer mentions this cheese in the Odyssey. It is often formed in baskets, marking the rind with indentations. The rind is hard and typically pale yellow, with a flaky interior ranging in color from ivory to pale yellow with minimal eyes, and sometimes with black peppercorns embedded.
Flavor profile:  Salty, fruity and sharp; intensifying as it matures.
Suggested wine pairing:  An aged red, such as nero d’avola

Pecorino Toscano
Milk:  Sheep
Region of origin:  Tuscany
Description:  For the past 2,500 hundred years, this cheese has been crafted throughout Tuscany, primarily in the wild Maremma countryside. It comes in soft and semi-hard versions; the soft version is ripened at least 20 days, while the semi-hard cheese is ripened at least four months. Formed into wheels, the rind is pale yellow to dark yellow with a white, ivory or pale yellow interior, depending on age.
Flavor profile:  The younger version is milder and a bit tangy, but the mature version is much sharper and has a more pronounced nutty flavor.
Suggested wine pairing:  An aged red, such as chianti or chianti riserva

Provolone Valpadana
Milk:  Cows
Region of origin:  Lombardy, Emilia-Romagna, Trentino-Alto Adige, Veneto
Description:  Provolone cheese originated in southern Italy, but its production eventually spread throughout the country by the late nineteenth century. The cattle-rich, northern area of the Valpadana (Po Valley) is the source of this version. Two types of provolone valpadana are available: dolce, which is aged only two to three months and is used as a table cheese, and piccante, aged at least three months and often used as a grating cheese.
Flavor profile:  Delicate, slightly spicy and tangy when young; saltier and more piquant when aged.
Suggested wine pairing: An aged red, such as montepulciano d’abruzzo

Quartirolo Lombardo
Milk:  Cows
Region of origin:  Lombardy
Description:  Historically called stracchino quadro, this cheese’s name refers to its traditional production method using milk from cows that grazed on fresh grass from the autumn cut. Although now made year round, many consider the autumn cheeses the best. It comes in squares with thin, white to pale yellow rinds that become thicker and darker with age, and a white to ivory interior that is creamy when young, denser and flaky when aged. Young versions age five to 30 days; mature versions age more than 30 days.
Flavor profile:  Sweet with some tang when young, more piquant with a fruity hint when older.
Suggested wine pairing:  A dry white, such as gavi

Ragusano
Milk:  Cow
Region of origin:  Sicily
Description:  An important piece of Sicily’s cheesemaking history, ragusano is a caciocavallo-style cheese often called caciocavallo ragusano or ragusano caciocavallo. It dates back to the 14th century and was even traded in the Mediterranean region in the 16th century. It comes in a large, brick-shaped loaf, with a thin but firm rind that varies from pale yellow to golden brown. Its interior is pale yellow to light golden; it is firm and becomes hard and granular as it ages.
Flavor profile:  As a young cheese, it is sweet and delicate; as it ages, it turns more savory and pungent.
Suggested wine pairing:  An aged or full-bodied red such as contessa entellina merlot

Raschera
Milk:  Cows, goats and sheep
Region of origin:  Piedmont
Description:  Lake Raschera, at the base of Mount Mongioie in southern Piedmont, is the source for this cheese’s name, made from partially skimmed cow’s milk, though some goat’s or sheep’s milk may be added. It must come from two milkings on the same day, and from Bruno Alpina or Piedmontese cows. The dense cheese has rinds with reddish tinges, and a gray to white or yellow interior with some eyes, and comes in both round wheels and irregular squares. The square shape is more common, and originated from the days the cheese was stacked on donkeys to be hauled down the mountain.
Flavor profile:  A strong aroma of hay and buttermilk, it is mild and delicate with some sweetness when young, with buttermilk and hay notes. It becomes stronger, savory and more pungent when it matures.
Suggested wine pairing:  A young red, such as dolcetto di dogliani or barbera del monferrato

Robiola di Roccaverano
Milk:  Cows, goats and sheep
Region of origin:  Piedmont
Description:  This 2,000-year-old cheese is the only Italian goat’s milk cheese to enjoy DOP status, although regulations now allow it to have up to 85 percent cow’s milk and 15 percent goat’s or sheep’s milk, though never 100 percent cow’s milk. Rinds, when it has them, are thin, off-white to pale yellow, with a creamy interior that is white to ivory. The cheese can be aged for as little as three days, and sometimes another two to three weeks.
Flavor profile:  Young cheeses are delicate, nutty and sweet with some tang; aged versions tend to be bolder with more pungency.
Suggested wine pairing:  A dry white, such as arneis or cortese di gavi

Spressa delle Giudicarie
Milk:  Cows
Region of origin:  Trentino-Alto Adige
Description:  One of the most ancient Alpine cheeses, Spressa delle Giudicarie can only be produced in four areas of the Trentino-Alto Adige region: Chiese, Giudicarie, Ledro and Rendena. A semi-hard cheese that is firm and elastic to granular in texture, it has a hard rind of brown, orange and yellow with a white to pale yellow interior that has some eyes. Spressa derives from the word spress, meaning pressed curd. Young versions, called giovane, ripen for three months, while mature versions, called stagionati, ripen six months.
Flavor profile:  Mild, delicate and sweet as a young cheese, becoming more savory as it ages.
Suggested wine pairing:  A young or aged red, such as barbera d’alba or merlot del veneto

Stelvio or Stilfser
Milk:  Cows
Region of origin:  Trentino-Alto Adige
Description:  Though made since the 13th century, this cheese only started going by the names Stelvio or Stilfser in the 20th century. It’s a newer addition to the DOP clan, gaining status in 2007. This Alpine cheese was long considered a peasant’s staple. It is creamy yellow, with a scattering of eyes, and is aged two months then washed with brine.
Flavor profile:  Rich with a Swiss aroma.
Suggested wine pairing:  An aged red, such as barbera d’asti

Taleggio
Milk:  Cows
Region of origin:  Lombardy, Piedmont, Veneto
Description:  Another storied Italian cheese, Taleggio is said to date back to the 10th century, possibly earlier. It is semisoft, generally aged 25 to 50 days; the rind is thin and wrinkly, in a range of colors from yellow to pink. The creamy interior is pale yellow. The style is historically known as stracchino, and the name comes from the Taleggio Valley where it is said to have originated.
Flavor profile:  The strong, pungent aroma is offset by a mild, sweet and nutty flavor with a faint tang when young. It becomes rich, full flavored and tangier with mushroom notes as it ages.
Suggested wine pairing:  A dry red, such as bardolino or valpolicella

Toma Piemontese
Milk:  cows
Region of origin:  Piedmont
Description:  A centuries-old cheese thought to date back to Roman times, toma piemontese is produced in the Piedmont and Lombardy regions, and is the only one of many toma varieties that has DOP status. There are two styles of it, one made with whole milk and the other with partially skimmed milk, called semigrassa. It is ripened from 15 days to five months, has a thin rind that is pale to medium yellow to even reddish brown as it ages, with a lighter, ivory to golden yellow interior, with small eyes.
Flavor profile:  Mild and sweet with a slight tang when young; more intense, savory and piquant when older.
Suggested wine pairing:  A dry white, such as roero arneis

Valle d’Aosta Fromadzo
Milk:  Cows
Region of origin:  Valle d’Aosta
Description:  Dating back to the 15th century, this cheese is produced throughout the Valle d’Aosta, a mountainous area of northern Italy near the French and Swiss borders. Historically, locals called partially skimmed milk cheeses fromadzo and whole-milk cheeses fontina (another popular cheese from the region). There are two versions, one containing less fat than the other, and the cheese rind ranges from pale to dark yellow, sometimes mottled with brown, gray or red; inside it is milk white to yellow with small, varied eyes. Aged for three to 12 months, fragrant herbs and seeds are sometimes added.
Flavor profile:  The cheese is mild and slightly sweet with some tang, which becomes stronger, saltier and more pungent with age.
Suggested wine pairing:  A young red, such as gamay valle d’aosta

Valtellina Casera
Milk:  Cows
Region of origin:  Lombardy
Description:  This variant of bitto differs in production method and can be produced year-round and also is made from cows that graze at lower altitude levels than bitto, which can only be made at an altitude of at least 4,900 feet. The name refers to the Valtellina area in the Sondrio province and the cellars used for its aging. The cheese must be aged for at least 60 days. It is straw colored when young and becomes brownish gray as it ages; it has tiny eyes and a white to golden yellow interior.
Flavor profile:  Young cheeses are mild, delicate and slightly sweet; the cheese becomes stronger, savory, tangy and aromatic as it ages.
Suggested wine pairing:  An aged or full-bodied red, such as valtellina superiore or sforzato

purchasing and storing
Purchase smaller portions of cheese more frequently to help manage your quality cuts. When storing cheese, it’s important to let it breathe so it can continue to develop without drying out. Wrap it first in wax paper to maintain its flavor, then wrap it in plastic or foil to prevent drying. Change the wrapping every few days and keep it in the vegetable drawer, where the moisture is beneficial for cheese.

whether to eat the rind
In general, rinds are a personal preference. Many people don’t enjoy the intensified flavor or the texture of the rind, but they’re not harmful—though tougher, thicker rinds may be harder to eat. Rinds on softer cheeses are typically eaten with the interior, though it’s always acceptable to trim away the rind or to eat the cheese from the inside out if that’s your preference.

a note about serving
If serving two or more cheeses, opt for a variety of milk type, texture and flavor. Cheese should be brought to room temperature before you serve it, and cheese experts across the board advise against freezing cheese because it damages its flavor significantly. Finally, choosing the wine to serve doesn’t need to be a chore—cheese partners best with wines that are produced near its origin.

December 2008