Though we're saddened by the fact that prohibitive costs for meeting USDA certification keeps much of the best Italian salumi far from our shores, we're gladdened by the fact that there is a growing number of talented artisans in the States making salumi using traditional Italian techniques. Listed below are our favorite domestic producers. All bring a passion and respect for natural ingredients and a traditional approach to making salumi. (And, luckily for us, they all offer mail-order.) If you're looking for good quality imported prosciutto, speck, or mortadella (among the few salumi readily exported from Italy), try your local specialty store or Italian market. For how to choose, slice, and store these savory delectables, look here.

Creminelli Fine Meats,  Springville, Utah
www.creminelli.com; (206) 626-6328
Must haves: Their salame Barolo, which is imbued with the robust flavor of the famous wine from the Piedmont. Another favorite, salame tartufo, is laced with black summer truffles from northern Italy.

Knight Salumi Company, San Diego, California
www.knightsalumico.com; (858) 565-0664
Must have: We especially like Knight’s small salame finocchiona, which has a nuanced, not overpowering, fennel flavor.
 

Fra’Mani Handcrafted Salumi, Berkeley, California
www.framani.com; (510) 526-7000
Must haves: We love Fra’Mani's salame rosa, which they season with coriander, white pepper, and mace before finishing it with a light fruitwood smoke. Their soppressata, made with coarsely cut pork, is also fabulous. And though it is not technically a salumi (because it is not cured), Fra’Mani’s rosemary ham was a highlight of our tasting.

Salumeria Biellese, New York, New York
www.salumeriabiellese.com; (212) 736-7376
Must haves: Whether you’re looking for bresaola, coppa, or culatello, a salame inspired by one of the most exclusive cured meats in Italy, you’ll be in good hands with Salumeria Biellese. They also make a large, Toscana-style salame finocchiona that’s spicy with a robust fennel flavor.

Photo by Tyler Lynch for Creminelli Fine Meats

October 2009

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salumi, cured, salami, salame, fra mani