A traditional grappa tasting glass is generally tulip or column shaped. Riedel offers one with a long straight body, keeping the nose far enough above the strong aromas, while concentrating the scent. Stolzle goes with a wider base, which allows more of the liquid to breathe. But with today’s refined grappa, a brandy snifter or tall wine glass will also work. Just make sure to keep the pour light. Grappa is best savored in small doses.

Once your grappa is poured, aroma is the first aspect you should appreciate. Grappa has aggressive aromatics, though, and the vapors from the spirit can be dominating. Start with your nose well above the glass and raise the glass closer as you inhale the scents.

Grappa didn’t earn its reputation as a heavy-hitting spirit for nothing. Even the most well crafted grappa will still pack a punch. So to really parse the flavors, be sure to take a small enough sip that you will be able to let the spirit flow over your tongue without overheating. A small sip goes a long way! Note the texture of the grappa on your tongue. It should be slightly unctuous without being oily. You will likely note a satisfying herbaceous flavor, a slight tingle from tannins and, if the grappa is aged, you might pick up a hint of caramel. Pay attention to individual characteristics, as there is quite a distinction between a grappa made from the tannic Nebbiolo and the aromatic Moscato or Riesling.

If you will be sampling a number of grappa, Antonio Nardini, of Nardini distillery recommends instead of consuming the grappa, rubbing a small quantity on the back of your hand. This focuses the aromatics, and you will immediately be able to detect any flaws in the grappa. Watch for scents of gasoline or mold, the first indicators of a subpar grappa.

If you will be tasting numerous grappe, the order that you taste is important. Start with the giovane, or young, grappa. Begin with the blended grappa. But note that there is a difference between grappa made from a blend of different sources of vinaccia as opposed to a field blend like that of the lovely San Leonardo. Next, taste the monovitigno, or single variety giovane grappa. Start with the bottles made from non-aromatic grapes like Nebbiolo and move through those made from aromatic grapes like Moscato and most of the white varietals. Finally, when tasting aged grappe, note the difference in color from giovane. An aged grappa’s hue is the result of the type of barrel it is aged in. A barrel that has been toasted, or that has been used for wine will impart a darker hue, like Allegrini’s Amarone grappa, as opposed to Poli’s grappa di Sassicaia, which has a light, hay-colored hue. And as you taste the aged grappe, see if you can notice how the barrel-aging has affected the flavor and aromatics. There should be a smoother body. But a well-aged grappa will not lose its individuality.

Traditionally, grappa is served after dinner. It pairs very well with espresso and is often added to a shot of espresso to make a caffè corretto. But for the intrepid grappa drinker, grappa might be taken before dinner, as an aperitivo. It can accompany sharp cheese and mostarda very well and will even suit salumi.  

Photo by G. Giraldo

January 2010

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